For generations, diamonds reigned supreme as the definitive symbol of betrothal. From glossy advertisements to Hollywood proposals, their dominance in engagement culture was largely unquestioned. But today, an unmistakable shift is taking place. A growing number of couples are consciously stepping away from this tradition, gravitating instead towards alternative gemstones that better reflect their individuality, values, and taste.
This movement is not about shunning elegance, nor is it confined to fleeting fashion. It reflects a broader transformation in how love is expressed and symbolised. Where once the sparkle of a diamond was synonymous with permanence and prestige, now meaning is more often sought in the provenance, character, and symbolism of the stone itself. Whether prompted by environmental awareness, personal taste, or financial pragmatism, couples are opting for rings that resonate with them rather than conforming to tradition.
What emerges from this trend is not simply aesthetic diversity but an invitation to celebrate love in its most personal form. The modern engagement ring is becoming a mirror, not of status, but of the unique story it represents.
The reasons behind this shift are varied and interconnected. While the motivations differ from couple to couple, several common themes stand out.
The personal style sits high on the list. With coloured gemstones and unusual settings, rings no longer need to conform to cookie-cutter expectations. From soft aquamarines to bold rubies, the spectrum of colour and shape allows for deeply personal choices. It’s not just a ring; it’s an extension of one’s identity.
Ethics also play a growing role. Many buyers are now aware of the controversial history of diamond sourcing and are seeking stones that align more closely with their values. Conflict-free sourcing, fair labour, and sustainability are shaping jewellery preferences. Lab-grown gemstones and ethically mined alternatives offer a clear conscience, along with beauty.
Affordability, too, is often a deciding factor. Choosing an alternative does not necessarily mean sacrificing luxury; in fact, it usually offers a more luxurious experience. Stones like moissanite, morganite, and spinel can offer stunning aesthetics at a lower price point, freeing up funds for other priorities such as property or travel.
Symbolism holds enduring appeal. Unlike diamonds, which are largely prized for their optical qualities, many coloured gemstones come with layered meanings. A sapphire may stand for loyalty, an emerald for new beginnings, and a salt and pepper diamond for embracing imperfection. These attributes lend emotional depth to the jewellery, transforming it into something far more than just ornamental.
This multifaceted rationale, including style, ethics, and cost, is what makes alternative gemstones so compelling. Increasingly, couples are choosing rings that feel right, not just rings that look the part.
The trend is not happening in isolation. It is echoed in several broader jewellery movements that are reshaping how engagement rings are designed, made, and worn.
One of the most prominent developments is the rise of coloured stones. Once relegated to birthstone jewellery or antique pieces, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and even lesser-known options like spinel or morganite are being increasingly embraced for their vibrant colours. Shades like teal, peach, or lavender are infusing engagement rings with a freshness and personality once absent in standard solitaire designs.
Vintage styling is also staging a comeback. Whether it’s the intricate geometry of Art Deco or the delicate romance of Victorian-era pieces, many couples are seeking out rings with a sense of history and character. The popularity of repurposed heirlooms and vintage-inspired settings speaks to a wider desire for permanence and craftsmanship.
Then there is the growth of bespoke jewellery. More and more buyers are choosing to collaborate directly with designers to create one-off pieces. These bespoke rings often reflect meaningful choices — a partner’s favourite colour, a memorable location, or even a nod to a shared interest. In such rings, storytelling is as central as sparkle.
Finally, there’s a surge of interest in creative settings and cuts. Horizontal stone placements, low-profile bezels, hidden halos, and antique-inspired rose cuts are making a strong showing. These designs emphasise texture, silhouette, and function — opening the door to more wearable and practical styles that are nonetheless striking.
Fun Fact: The iconic engagement ring worn by Princess Diana — now belonging to Catherine, Princess of Wales — features a 12-carat oval sapphire surrounded by 14 solitaire diamonds. Its continued prominence has helped to fuel the popularity of sapphire rings for a new generation of buyers.
Sapphires are often the first port of call for those seeking a diamond alternative — and for good reason. A variety of corundum, sapphire is both hard-wearing and visually diverse. While best known for its rich blue tones, sapphires can appear in nearly every colour except red (which is classified as ruby). These so-called “fancy sapphires” range from pastel pinks to vibrant oranges, mossy greens, and even colour-changing specimens.
From a practical standpoint, sapphires score a robust 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, making them highly resistant to scratches. Their toughness and lack of cleavage also make them less likely to chip, giving them a longevity that’s well-suited to everyday wear.
On a symbolic level, sapphire represents wisdom, loyalty, and truth — qualities that naturally complement the meaning of an engagement. Historically worn by royalty and revered in many cultures as a stone of protection and divine favour, sapphire carries with it a narrative richness that few other stones can rival.
In ethical terms, sapphires are widely sourced, with Sri Lanka, Australia, and Madagascar known for relatively responsible mining operations. Laboratory-grown sapphires offer an equally beautiful, conflict-free alternative, often at a lower cost.
Pros: Excellent durability, wide colour range, meaningful symbolism, widely available lab-grown options.
Cons: Some colours, such as Padparadscha, can be as costly as diamonds; white sapphires may lack brilliance.
Moissanite is a lab-created gemstone that has risen sharply in popularity over the past decade. Its brilliance exceeds that of a diamond, producing a fiery sparkle that some find even more captivating. This is thanks to its high refractive index and strong dispersion, two optical qualities that result in intense flashes of light.
Discovered originally in a meteor crater, natural moissanite is vanishingly rare. Today’s jewellery-grade stones are created entirely in laboratories, meaning there are no mining impacts or conflict concerns to consider. For ethically-minded couples, it represents one of the most sustainable options available.
In terms of resilience, moissanite scores an impressive 9.25 to 9.5 on the Mohs scale, putting it just below diamond. It resists scratches, chips, and abrasions with ease, making it suitable for long-term wear.
Although it’s often seen as a diamond substitute, moissanite is increasingly appreciated in its own right. Colourless varieties are the most common, but fancy colours such as green, yellow, or grey are available and can add further character.
Pros: Outstanding brilliance, excellent durability, affordable pricing, inherently ethical.
Cons: Some may perceive it as a simulant rather than a distinct gem; its vivid sparkle may not appeal to traditional tastes.
Emeralds have captivated admirers for millennia. Their rich green tones, associated with renewal, rebirth, and balance, have graced royal regalia and ancient talismans alike. Yet, for all their beauty, emeralds are not without their complexities — both visually and practically.
Belonging to the beryl family, emeralds score 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale. This places them in the moderate range for hardness, but their internal structures often contain inclusions (called jardin), which can make them more prone to chipping or cracking under impact. While these natural markings are celebrated for their uniqueness, they necessitate a degree of care in daily wear.
Emeralds are often treated with oils or resins to enhance clarity. This is a standard industry practice, but it does mean they require gentler cleaning methods and ongoing maintenance.
Despite these limitations, emeralds remain among the most emotive and symbolic gemstones. As the birthstone for May and a favoured gem of Cleopatra, they convey a sense of timelessness and mystery that few other stones achieve.
Pros: Unmistakable colour, strong romantic symbolism, visually larger appearance per carat.
Cons: Fragility due to inclusions, sensitivity to heat and chemicals, potentially high cost for fine specimens.
For couples seeking a blush-toned alternative, morganite provides a gentle, affectionate glow. This pink variety of beryl (related to emerald and aquamarine) has gained widespread popularity in recent years, particularly when paired with rose gold settings. Its peachy undertones and soft pinks lend a romantic, almost ethereal quality to engagement rings.
Morganite has a hardness of 7.5 to 8, making it relatively durable but still susceptible to wear and tear over time. It is generally eye-clean and has good clarity, which contributes to its delicate sparkle. Because it is less dense than diamond, morganite stones tend to appear larger at the same carat weight — a visual bonus for those working within a budget.
Symbolically, morganite represents compassion, joy, and emotional healing. It is often described as the “stone of divine love,” making it especially apt for engagement purposes.
Pros: Romantic pastel hues, good clarity, excellent value, often available in larger sizes.
Cons: Needs regular cleaning, more prone to scratches, colour can be faint unless the stone is sizeable.
For those who prefer boldness and symbolism in equal measure, ruby stands unrivalled. As the red variety of corundum — the same mineral as sapphire — ruby inherits the same formidable hardness and durability, ranking 9 on the Mohs scale. This makes it not only visually arresting but also reliably suited to daily wear.
The most valuable rubies are a rich, vivid red with a slight bluish tint, commonly referred to as “pigeon’s blood”. These stones often originate from Myanmar, though their ethical provenance is frequently contested due to political and human rights concerns. Today, many buyers favour rubies from alternative sources such as Mozambique or opt for lab-grown rubies, which are chemically identical and free from ethical complications.
Rubies are steeped in symbolic meaning — representing vitality, love, courage, and energy. Once thought to contain an eternal flame, warriors and monarchs wore them as protective talismans. Modern engagement jewellery lends emotional gravitas to the promise it signifies.
Pros: Outstanding hardness, compelling colour, deep romantic symbolism.
Cons: High-quality natural rubies are rare and expensive; some origins raise ethical concerns.
Evoking the serenity of ocean water, aquamarine is a calming presence on the hand. Fellow beryl to emerald and morganite, aquamarine’s pale blue to greenish-blue hues are most striking in larger stones, where their delicate tones gain depth. It is a stone often chosen for its softness in appearance rather than its strength in hue.
With a hardness of 7.5 to 8, aquamarine performs well under moderate wear conditions. However, it is not as tough as sapphire or moissanite and is vulnerable to scratches or chipping if subjected to daily rough treatment.
Symbolically, aquamarine has been associated with clarity, peace, and fidelity. Sailors once wore it as a protective charm, and it remains a symbol of safe passage and renewal.
Pros: Subtle and elegant colour, generally high clarity, affordable pricing.
Cons: Softer than top-tier stones, less brilliance than diamond, colour may fade in strong sunlight.
Long misidentified as ruby or sapphire, spinel is finally receiving recognition as a compelling gemstone in its own right. Available in an extraordinary range of colours, from vibrant reds to soft lavenders and steely greys, spinel offers superb clarity and brightness without the prohibitive pricing of its more famous counterparts.
Scoring 8 on the Mohs scale, spinel is hard enough for everyday wear and often comes untreated, which increases its appeal to purists. Historically prized by royalty, the “Black Prince’s Ruby” in the British Crown Jewels is actually a red spinel, bringing with it a rich legacy.
Symbolically, spinel is associated with revitalisation, hope, and protection. It is increasingly selected by those who want a distinct stone with understated depth.
Pros: Excellent durability, wide colour palette, usually untreated, good value.
Cons: Less widely known, making sourcing and resale trickier; high-quality specimens are rising in price.
Few stones can match opal for originality. Its signature play-of-colour, flashes of red, green, blue, and gold dancing across a milky or dark base, ensures that no two opals are ever the same. This uniqueness makes opal a tempting choice for couples who seek something utterly personal.
However, opal is soft. With a Mohs hardness of 5.5 to 6.5, it is among the most delicate stones on this list and requires careful handling. It is sensitive to heat, dryness, and sudden temperature changes, which can cause it to crack or craze. Protective settings are essential for any ring that will be worn frequently.
Opal has long been thought to inspire creativity and passion. It is the birthstone for October and has been considered both lucky and unlucky across different cultures — a duality that only adds to its intrigue.
Pros: Incomparable beauty, deeply individual, widely symbolic.
Cons: Fragile and high-maintenance, not ideal for daily wear, susceptible to water and heat damage.
Discovered only in 1967, tanzanite is a newcomer in gemological terms. Found exclusively in the Merelani Hills of Tanzania, this vibrant blue-violet stone quickly became a favourite for its rich hue and optical intrigue. Tanzanite displays trichroism, meaning it shows three colours depending on the angle viewed — typically blue, violet, and burgundy.
While captivating, tanzanite is less suited for everyday wear than some other options. It registers 6 to 7 on the Mohs scale and is relatively brittle. Settings should be chosen with care, and the stone should be removed during strenuous activity.
Symbolically, tanzanite is tied to transformation, intuition, and spiritual growth. Its relative rarity and exclusivity also lend it an aspirational quality.
Pros: Striking colour, rare origin, growing prestige.
Cons: Fragility limits suitability for daily use, prone to market fluctuation due to single-source origin.
Salt and pepper diamonds defy traditional expectations for gemstones. Their surface is speckled with visible black, grey, or white inclusions — once considered flaws, now embraced as markers of individuality. Each stone is different, with patterns that resemble galaxies, snowstorms, or smoke.
Despite being true diamonds (Mohs 10), these stones may be structurally weaker due to the concentration of inclusions, some of which may reach the surface. As a result, they benefit from protective settings and mindful wear.
The rise of salt and pepper diamonds aligns with broader cultural shifts toward authenticity and embracing imperfection. They symbolise resilience and character — perfect for couples who reject convention.
Pros: Uniquely beautiful, highly scratch-resistant, often more affordable than traditional diamonds.
Cons: May be brittle, less sparkle than clear diamonds, niche appeal may impact long-term desirability.
The decision to choose an alternative gemstone should not hinge on beauty alone. Daily wear, job requirements, and activity levels must all factor into the decision. Hardness alone is not enough — toughness (resistance to breaking) and stability (resistance to chemicals and heat) are equally important.
The setting you choose — whether a full bezel, halo, or low prong mount — plays a key role in protecting your stone over time.
Modern buyers are increasingly drawn to lab-grown stones for their traceability, environmental benefits, and affordability. These stones are not imitation; they are chemically identical to their natural counterparts. Sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and moissanite are all widely available in lab-created form.
For those who prefer natural stones, provenance matters. Seek gems from mines with fair labour practices and responsible sourcing credentials. Australian sapphires and Sri Lankan stones are often cited as exemplary sources of ethically mined natural stones. Certifications from the GIA or AGS, as well as transparency from your jeweller, can make all the difference.
Diamonds will always have their place in the jewellery world, but the growth of alternative gemstones signals a refreshing evolution in how couples express love. Whether driven by ethical concerns, stylistic preferences, or personal resonance, the movement is about more than replacing one stone with another. It is about redefining what matters.
The ten gemstones in this article — sapphire, moissanite, emerald, morganite, ruby, aquamarine, spinel, opal, tanzanite, and salt and pepper diamonds — each bring a unique voice to a universal sentiment. Their diversity empowers couples to choose rings that are not just beautiful, but meaningful.
By working with a trusted jeweller, exploring both lab-grown and ethically sourced options, and being honest about your lifestyle and preferences, you can select a gemstone that reflects not just your love — but the life you intend to build together.
