The Asscher cut is a square step cut, developed by the Asscher brothers in Amsterdam in 1902 and one of the few diamond cuts ever to be patented. It shares the step cut faceting of an emerald cut but in a square outline with cropped corners, which produces a deep, concentric play of light often described as looking down a hall of mirrors.This collection includes Paris.Asscher cuts are uncommon, and that is much of the appeal. They carry a strong art deco association and appeal to people who want something recognisably different from a round brilliant without moving to a coloured stone.Like the emerald cut, the Asscher hides nothing. The open table and parallel facets make inclusions and colour more visible than they would be in a brilliant cut, so clarity should be higher than you would accept elsewhere. The cropped corners are a practical benefit, removing the fragile points that make a true square cut vulnerable.The modern royal Asscher adds extra facets for more brilliance while keeping the outline, so it is worth establishing which version you are looking at, as they behave quite differently in the light.Our diamond shapes guide covers the step cuts together, and for an Asscher in a setting of your own design, our bespoke service can source the stone and build around it.

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